2022-12-31 Martinique to Dominica

Today was a passage from Martinique to Dominica. I’d originally wanted to travel a bit further to the Îles des Saintes in Guadeloupe, but I knew my engine speed would prevent me making it before sunset and perhaps even before midnight. So I changed my plans and decided upon Portsmouth in Dominica as my destination.

I did not sleep well, worried about the engine problems and how I could get it fixed. At 05:00 I gave up and got up, made a coffee and proceeded to get the boat ready for passage. The winds should have settled offshore, so I added another 50 feet of towing line to the dinghy. This should keep the bow down and prevent it getting wind and lift on the hull.

Sunrise

I departed just before sunrise and there wasn’t a hint of wind and no waves. I was making 2.5 knots; either performance had decreased further or there was a bit of a current. Hopefully it was the current. I believe I would have to motor 2 hours west to get back into the trades, and 3 hours north to leave the lee of Martinique.

Since my destination was north, I just had to deal with the snail’s pace of Zanshin.

Once past the northernmost tip of Martinique the winds and waves picked up again. The waves had settled somewhat but the winds were quite strong and I was worried if I headed on my true course the sideways wind would flip the dinghy.  Therefore I headed at an oblique angle and that slowed me down a bit, but kept the dinghy (mostly) attached to the water.

Although I didn’t see 10 knots, I did do 8. I know I should be 1-2 knots faster at that sail setting so it must be the dirty bottom holding me back. That is another task I need to complete, but I need an air tank to complete that.

Dominica

I had tried to stay several miles west of Dominica to avoid the backwinding and dead zone and almost made it. Once in the lee of the island the wind abruptly died and I had to motor further offshore to catch the breeze.

This was my busiest day of sailing, ever. The wind would die, then it would pipe up to 30 knots so I’d have to shorten sail. Then settle in at 10 knots and I’d let the sail out again. At times it was fun to do 8 knots with no waves but just as I got to enjoy the sensation the wind would die. Then I’d be forced to turn on the engine and crawl at 2.5 knots until the next wind.

I was only 5 miles from Portsmouth when the wind completely stopped. Even the catamaran several miles further offshore had flapping sails. So, at 2.5-3 knots I limped towards Portsmouth but kept the sails up, just in case.

Portsmouth approach

Some showers came over the hill and soon I was in 15-20 knots and zipping into Portsmouth. With only 2 more miles to the anchorage, I suddenly got worried about my engine being able to push me into the wind to anchor. I made plans to sail to the anchoring spot, but the squall passed just in time. The anchorage is as full as I’ve ever seen it and there are some beautiful megayachts to see. I found a good anchoring position in 20 feet and let out at least 150′ to make sure I didn’t drift into the megayacht behind me.

I was approached for the 3rd time since coming into Portsmouth by a pirogue with a boat-boy. The system is that the boats choose a “boat boy” (often old enough to have grandchildren) from the PAYS association. The boat boy will arrange tours and everything else and once you’ve got one the word spreads around and you aren’t solicited by others. I’ve used Alexis in the past and once I mentioned I worked with him I got the thumbs up from them and they departed. It is nice to know the system, that takes some stress from arriving in a foreign port.

At anchor

The third guy was selling tickets to the weekly BBQ and party that PAYS hosts. This helps cover the costs involved in their private policing of the anchorage. Plus it is a great way to get to know the other cruisers.  I was tempted to go ashore for New Year but I was flying my yellow “Q” flag and officially was not allowed to leave the boat except to go to customs & immigration. I regretfully declined and said all I need was to fix my engine and have a cold beer. My stores had run out. He suggested that he get some cold Kubuli for me ashore and we made deal. 

By the time he’d returned, I’d gotten my lines stowed and the boat made ready. The swim platform had been lowered so we could exchange cash for beer and soon thereafter I had a celebratory cold one.