Fisherboat zipping past me
Fisherboat zipping past me
Picture of Arnd

Arnd

2024-04-22 Jolly Harbour to Falmouth Harbour

Morning

I took care of some work before going ashore. I showered, shaved and checked my paperwork before departing and, much to my chagrin, found a serious problem. It seems that Sint Maarten C&I had inadvertently kept my boat registration. It is printed on 2 pages; the first page has all the details, on the second page just has how many shares each owner has. Since I’m the only owner, it is only 1 line on that page. I had the second page, but not the first!

I went through my paperwork folder to ensure that I hadn’t mistakenly put it in there. No luck. I found a PDF file with the registration and loaded that onto a USB stick and ventured ashore to the marina office. The trip in from my spot was very, very long. I cheated by planing my dinghy despite the 5-knot speed limit. I didn’t think it applied to dinghies, but I found out later that it does. Had I kept to the speed limit, the trip to the dock would have been a good 15 minutes.

Ashore at Customs and Immigration

At the office, they told me that they weren’t allowed to accept USB sticks and I’d have to send it via e-mail so that they could print it. They kindly helped me by calling C&I and asking if they’d accept the PDF file, to which they responded “no”. After a while, one of the office staff told me that I could use her notebook to email it. This notebook was over 10 years old and very slow. In the end, we had the registration page on the screen, and it had a QR code that we could scan and print at another station. I checked her PC and found it had some broken drivers. And old programs, and cleaned it up; then I went to C&I.

C&I at Jolly Harbour
C&I at Jolly Harbour

I’d not used Jolly Harbour immigration in many years. Other cruisers recommended them because it is much cheaper than English Harbour. It was cheaper, but the process took an hour and a half despite my having the paperwork and online forms in order. A charter boat in front of me had caused confusion, and the backlog took time to sort out. Even though only 3 boats were waiting for clearance. This is much slower than at English Harbour.

While returning to Zanshin, someone waved to me from a catamaran outside the channel. I went over and was asked if I could take the caretaker to shore, as their dinghy had run out of gas. I wasn’t thrilled about another 10-minute trip, but I  could hardly say no; she was the one who told me about the speed limit enforcement, but admitted that the harbour police weren’t around that day 🙂

Noon
Transit of Cades Reef
Transit of Cades Reef

I had planned on staying the day and night, but wanted to go ashore again. That long dinghy ride was going to be just too much for me. So, I got the engine fired up and left. I decided to try motoring slowly between Cades Reef and the shore.

Revelry anchored at the reef
Revelry anchored at the reef

The water is shallow and there are numerous coral heads, but it is so much calmer in there than outside of the reef. I motored at 2-3 knots and followed the chart closely, and watched the depth. It went from 12 feet under the keel to 8 feet under the keel and was never shallower, so I’ll be using that route in the future.

Falmouth Harbour
Rocky southern shore of Antigua
Rocky southern shore of Antigua

The final 5 miles outside of the reef heading to Falmouth are always nasty. The path is directly into the prevailing wind, and the waves wrap around the island to deliver a nice punch. The decks which the overnight rains had cleaned are now salty again, and I’m hoping for a cleansing shower soon.

Distant Falmouth upwind
Distant Falmouth upwind

I anchored a bit further away than usual, as all the inner spots are now taken by mooring balls. I’d prefer not to pay for something which, ultimately, I don’t trust as much as my anchor and chain system. Which is free of additional costs.

Ashore

I went ashore to say hello to those I knew and ended up meeting Neil, who is handing over Emily of Cowes to another skipper and returning home in several days. I have a bit of a hangover as a reminder of last night at Skullduggery.